The Complete Guide to Photographing the Golden Gate Bridge

January 31st, 2010 by Tom

It’s safe to say that no first-time visit to San Francisco is complete without a visit to the Golden Gate Bridge. The famous “Industrial Orange”-colored suspension bridge has been an internationally recognized symbol of the Bay Area ever since its completion in 1937. At that time, it was the longest of its kind in the world.

Now, you could go to the visitor’s center and nab the traditional tourist shot, but where’s the fun in that? On the other hand, if you’re looking for a few different angles the Golden Gate Bridge then San Francisco photographer Bill Storage has all the information you’ll need. Bill’s “Photographers Guide to the Golden Gate Bridge” is a 4-part series on the various spots from which to photograph this amazing example of architecture.

Photo “Golden Gate from Langdon Court” courtesy of Bill Storage.

Stop Clients from Asking for Outtakes by Changing Your File Naming Scheme

January 20th, 2010 by Tom

Photographers often ask how they should deal with customers who ask for their outtakes. Take a look at the image to the right. I completely screwed up the focus while shooting a track runner doing the hurdles. I’d never let that image see the light of day… if I hadn’t published it here for you to see, that is. When it comes to frames like this nothing takes the place of a good, solid contract, but you may be able to prevent this situation from even arising by changing your file naming scheme.

Most professional photographers I know do not deliver every last frame to the client. The feeling is that a photographer’s value lies in his artistic vision, and what is delivered to the client is the end product of his or her expertise. If the job were to just fire away, dump the memory cards to a disc and drop it in the mail, well, anybody could do that. We all know that quality is far more important than quantity.

It’s virtually inevitable that at some point in your career a client will call up and ask something along the lines of “do you have anything else?” Like I said, nothing takes the place of a rock-solid contract. Many of the contracts I’ve read include a clause that explicitly states the photographer is not obligated to deliver 100% of the frames that were shot. But if you take steps to prevent this question from ever arising, then you won’t have to fall back on your contract.

Step 1: Deliver awesome photographs

First and foremost, use your talent. Deliver a set of rock-solid, mesmerizing photos and the client will most likely be satisfied. Your job is done.

Step 2: Change your file naming scheme

Alright, nobody’s perfect. From time to time we shoot a frame that turns out terrible. It is of no value to the client, and you would not want it to make its way to potential clients as an indicator of your skill level.

So what I am talking about? Well, when you import photos from your memory cards, how do you name them? A lot of photographers use sequence numbers, e.g. keyword-0001.cr2. This is still the case even if you don’t rename your files, since most cameras name use sequence numbers to name files. A client may look at a folder full of images, see gaps in what’s obviously an incremental sequence of numbers and ask to see the files that appear to be missing.

It is possible to name your files in sequence without making the succession blatantly obvious. My preferred method is to use the following date & time-based pattern:

[Year][Month][Day]-[keyword]-[Hour][Minute][Second].cr2

A sample filename output by this pattern is 20100116-foobar-134726.cr2. It’s still incremental, but not so obvious.

Based on which software you use to organize your photos, there may be even more options available — e.g. Lightroom can use meta data such as aperture and shutter speed in the file name, and Adobe Bridge has milliseconds available under the date & time options.

Exceptions

Of course there may be exceptions to this — for example, you only have one or two mediocre frames of a wedding guest who is very important to the client. In that case, hand ’em over!

Find Out Who’s Using Your Photos with TinEye

January 19th, 2010 by Tom

TinEye is a “reverse image search” that allows you to input an image and find places where it’s being used online. This is useful for finding out where a picture came from, or in the case of photographers, tracking who’s using your work.

I tested TinEye using an image I knew would appear elsewhere on the web: “Traffic-Stopping Accident on the Tappan Zee Bridge”. I copied the location of the image file on Flickr and pasted it into the TinEye search box. The search took a few seconds to run, and returned a short list of blogs using my photo.

TinEye did miss at least one hit on my photo. I knew ahead of time that my photo appears in this Gothamist post, but the post does not appear in TinEye’s results. We can’t expect everything to be perfect though, and TinEye’s results are very good (and useful).

You may be wondering how TinEye reverse image search works. Instead of using keywords and other meta data found around images, like Google Image Search, TinEye examines files based on the actual content of the image. For this reason your search results only contain exact matches, not similar images. According to their FAQ, they’ve currently indexed over 1.2 billion images.

Check Out This Affordable Flash Accessory Kit from Brando.com

December 11th, 2009 by Tom

Brando.com’s flash accessory kit contains a wide variety of tools to help you get different affects out of your flashes. The kit is only $88 and includes the following:

  • Soft Diffuser
  • Honeycomb/grid
  • Snoot
  • Barndoor
  • Mini reflector
  • Globe diffuser
  • Flash adaptor

The kit has adaptor models for Canon, Nikon, Sony, Pentax, Vivitar and Metz flashes. For a hands-on review of this kit and some sample photos, check out “Brando Accessories Kit” by David Tejada.

Link via Mike Calanan on Twitter.

Telegraph Hill by Troy Holden

December 11th, 2009 by Tom

Telegraph Hill by Troy Holden

This excellent use of the square crop by Troy Holden shows homes and a church through a criss-cross of cables on Telegraph Hill in San Francisco with Coit Tower at the top.

Troy’s work focuses on the city of San Francisco, its people, neighborhoods, art and culture. You can see more of his work in his Flickr photostream, and on his collaborative photo blog CALIBER.

Used via the CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 Creative Commons license.

Nikon Releases 300mm f/2.8 Lens and a 2x Teleconverter

December 10th, 2009 by Tom

Today’s big news in the gear department is the announcement of some new gear: the AF-S NIKKOR 300mm f/2.8G ED VR lens, and the AF-S Teleconverter TC-20E II. All-in-all, Nikon shooters have some new, long, fast glass and a teleconverter to double their reach.

AF-S NIKKOR 300mm f/2.8G ED VR Lens

This super-telephoto prime lens has a fast f/2.8 aperture to let in lots of light and isolate subjects against an out-of-focus background, and Vibration Reduction to help minimize blur resulting from camera shake.

  • The VR system boasts an extra 4 stops of shutter speed, making sharp photos attainable at very slow shutter speeds. Where you may have shot at 1/300, Vibration Reduction lets you get down around 1/20.
  • The lens is built to last with a tough, moisture and dust resistant body.
  • It’ll autofocus as close as 7½ feet.
  • $5,900 price tag.

AF-S Teleconverter TC-20E III

AF-S TC-20E III teleconverter by Nikon

Putting this piece between your rear element and lens mount doubles the reach of your lens. The aforementioned 300mm lens? You get 600mm of reach by adding the TC-20E III.

  • Includes a special aspherical lens element which is intended to help maintain the lens’ image quality.
  • Works with FX and DX camera bodies; check the Nikon site for a table of lens compatibility.
  • Costs your lens 2 stops.
  • $500 price tag.

You can find more information and technical specifications for these products on Nikon’s website:

Explanation of Semi-Automatic DSLR Modes

September 4th, 2009 by Tom

Semi-automatic modes give you more creative control over the various elements of your photos than full auto, but without throwing you into full manual mode. Choose what factor you wish to control — depth of field, shutter speed — and pick a semi-automatic mode that takes care of the rest.

Aperture Priority Mode

In Aperture Priority mode, you set the aperture and the camera determines the rest of the exposure settings automatically. Aperture priority mode is useful for creatively using depth of field or choosing an aperture that is optimal for low-light shooting (or blocking out ambient light) without worrying about the shutter speed.

Examples:

  • Choose a low f number for a shallow depth of field, such as 2.8 or 1.4. This will give you a blurry, out-of-focus background.
  • Choose a high f number such as 10, 16 or 22 for a deep depth of field that will put much more of your subject in focus. This is often useful for landscape photos.
  • Choose a low f number — which corresponds to a wider aperture — to shoot hand-held in low light. The wider aperture allows more light to hit the sensor, enabling you to use a shutter speed fast enough to photograph a person or eliminate blur resulting from shaking hands.

Program Mode

In Program mode, nearly all of the camera’s settings are determined automatically. The camera chooses the aperture and the shutter speed, and you are in charge of framing your subject.

Examples:

  • You want to concentrate on thoughtfully framing your photographs, so you set your camera to program mode, choose an appropriate ISO and work on your composition techniques without worrying about specific settings.

Shutter Priority Mode

In Shutter Priority mode, you set the shutter speed and the camera determines the rest of the exposure settings automatically. An example of a situation where this is applicable is sports — use your DSLR’s shutter priority mode to set a fast motion-stopping shutter speed, and let the camera automatically choose the other necessary settings for a good exposure.

Examples:

  • Choose a fast shutter speed such as 1/1000 of a second to freeze the motion of a fast-moving athlete.
  • Choose a slower shutter speed to create motion blur, e.g. photograph fast-moving taxi cabs at night as a streaks of yellow.

Beyond shutter speed and aperture

In these various semi-automatic modes, there are other settings beyond exposure that are also left up to the photographer. It is often up to you to choose an appropriate ISO number, however many newer DSLRs also offer auto-ISO. Focusing and metering are also important settings — you choose which AF mode to use, and which mode to use in order to meter light in the frame.

Using flash

A camera that has been set to one of these semi-automatic modes usually will not fire the flash unless you specifically ask the camera to do so — either by manually activating or popping up your built-in flash, or attaching and turning on an external flash.

Photo by nate steiner used under a Creative Commons license.

FlickrSync: Synchronize Local Folders with Flickr

May 11th, 2009 by Tom

FlickrSync is a free Windows application that will synchronize the contents of a folder or set of folders on your computer with your Flickr account. It allows the user to define upload settings, create photos sets and define custom filters.

FlickrSync works one-way — photos are synced from your computer to Flickr, but not the other way around. You are able to define Flickr photo permissions, and synchronize according to dates, captions, file names and more. FlickrSync can operate on one specific folder or a set of folders, as well as synchronize all the contents of a folder including sub-folders.

Visit the FlickrSync website.

Link via “Flickr File Synchronization Software” by gHacks.net.

Using Panoramas to Photograph Tall Buildings Without Distortion

February 11th, 2009 by Tom

Architectural Photography of Tall Buildings” by Paul Bartholomew is a play-by-play of the photographer’s thought process on a job that required him to capture towering Manhattan buildings without converging lines.

Of course I didn’t say it was 100% possible, but with an agreement to proceed I offered to scout each location so I can see the buildings through the viewfinder.
This is what I had in mind and successfully did. I’ve been thinking about doing panoramic photography for a long time and this was a chance to buy that nice panoramic head for one of my tripods and experiment with stitching.

Many wide angle lenses are affected by distortion that causes lines to balloon out in the center of the frame and converge near the edges; the client did not want their building to look like it was leaning over. To solve this problem Paul carefully chose his vantage point and shot a series of frames that were later stitched together in Photoshop. He set himself up on the rooftop of another building half the height of his subject and proceeded to photograph the building in pieces. The end result has definitive vanishing points, straight lines, and looks fantastic.

New 35mm f/1.8 DX Lens from Nikon

February 10th, 2009 by Tom

AF-S DX Nikkor 35mm f/1.8G lens from Nikon

On February 9th Nikon announced a new lens aimed at their entry-level customers: the AF-S DX Nikkor 35mm f/1.8G. This is prime glass boasting a wide f/1.8 maximum aperture, small size & light weight and an attractive price tag.

Nikon’s new 35mm f/1.8 is an introductory fixed focal length lens aimed at owners of Nikon’s entry-level cameras (the D40, D60 & D90) who are looking to experiment with this sort of equipment. Its wide f/1.8 maximum aperture enables low light shooting without a flash and allows for a shallow depth of field to isolate subjects and produce soft out-of-focus backgrounds. Plus the lens’ small size and weight makes it very portable.

Nikon’s release of the 35mm f/1.8 DX is a throwback to the SLR film days in that its field of view on a cropped DX sensor is approximately equivalent to the “normal” 50mm lenses that are prevalent among 35mm and full frame shooters. A 50mm f/1.8 lens is available from Nikon, but its field of view becomes slightly telephoto with the DX format of these entry-level DSLR cameras ands its auto focus system is not compatible with every Nikon DSLR. You can read more about why Nikon thinks their entry level customers want a normal prime and why “DX is not dead” in “35mm F1.8 for DX? What is Nikon up to?” by Digital Photography Review (link via Benjamin Golub on FriendFeed).

Last but not least is the 35mm f/1.8 DX’s price tag — an attractive $260. Good glass gets very expensive very quickly, which has had the side effect of creating a large market for cheap fast primes like the “nifty fifty” 50mm f/1.8 lenses (which run under $100.00). By engineering the 35mm f/1.8 as an accessible consumer-grade lens instead of professional glass, Nikon should be able to capitalize on two photographic effects that a great many SLR shooters fall in love with at first sight: ambient light shots and shallow depth of field.