The majority of visitors to the Hawaiian island of O’ahu stay on Waikiki Beach in Honolulu and while that’s a nice vacation, it’s only a small commercialized part of the island. By far my favorite memory from my first visit to O’ahu was renting a convertible and driving the perimiter of the island, seeing sights and shooting photos along the way.

If there’s only one thing you do in O’ahu besides relax on the beach, I suggest that be a tour of the island. This page is an outline of my driving tour. It is by no means complete, but it includes a lot of sights, is extensive, and took an entire day to complete. I left the hotel in Waikiki at 4 AM and returned some time in the evening.

First off, the chariot. What better way to cruise Hawaii than in a convertible?

A note about safety

A lot of theft occurs around beach parks in Hawaii. Leave absolutely nothing in your car. Don’t try to hide things under the seat. Don’t even leave a towel in the car — someone may break the window to see what’s under the towel. The rental car agent will probably deliver this lecture, but I’m including it here to be sure you stay safe.

Driving Directions

I’ll provide general driving directions in each section of this page, but they’re not complete by any means. I’m not a resident of Hawaii and have no way of knowing if routes have changed. Don’t use my directions as your only source of information — get yourself a map or even better, a GPS. I have a TomTom GPS and bring it on any trips where I plan on renting a car.

Although some sections of this drive are steep and over uneven ground, the majority of it is not very hard. Some parts are both challenging and beautiful — there are portions of the Kamehameha Highway with narrow lanes that follow so close to the shore that water from breaking waves washes across the road.

In general, you’ll be traveling east out of Honolulu, then north around the island in a counter-clockwise direction. After hitting the last stop in Hale’iwa, you cut across the interior of the island and take the major highways back towards Honolulu.

Stop 1: Sunrise at Kailua Beach Park

The Pali Highway takes you out of Honolulu towards Kailua. Take Kailua Road into town, then navigate your way through the local streets to Kailua Beach Park.

This beach park on the eastern side of the island will give you a great view of the sun rising over the Pacific Ocean. If it’s a nice day you’ll probably see a few scattered locals walking on the beach and paddling kayaks and canoes.

Stop 2: Valley of the Temples

Valley of the Temples Memorial Park is quiet and serene, surrounded by mountains and filled with wildlife. You’ll see various birds including peacocks, and water filled with Koi fish. The centerpiece is a replica of a 950 year-old Japanese temple Byodo-In.

Please be mindful that Valley of the Temples Memorial Park is a final resting place for many people. Be respectful of the environment and maintain the peaceful setting.

Route 72 leads out of Kailua. Take Route 83 (Kahekili Highway) north of Kane’ohe to Valley of the Temples.

Stop 3: Chinaman’s Hat

Take 83 North to Kualo Park at the edge of Kane’Ohe Bay to get a look at Chinaman’s Hat. The official name of this island is Mokoli‘i, but it’s referred to as “Chinaman’s Hat” due to its resemblance of straw hats that were worn by Chinese immigrants.

The island is actually open to the public from dawn until dusk and since it’s only a one-third of a mile off shore, it’s accessible by kayak, boat, surfboard, or even swimming. Weather, currents and wildlife can be unpredictable though. I wouldn’t suggest heading out there on anything other than a boat unless you’re an experienced waterman.

Stop 4: La’ie Point Sea Arch

Continue on 83 to the town of La’ie. Make a right on Anemoku, another right on Naupaka and drive to the end. Be careful walking out onto the point — the ground is uneven and the rocks are sharp. Cliffs can suddenly drop off.

The Sea Arch on Kukuihoolua Island was created in an instant by nature. A tsunami hit this area in 1946, and one of the results was this natural rock formation.

Lunch at the Shrimp Trucks

If you’re on pace with my own trip, it should be around midday at this point. Route 83 (Kamahameha Highway) passes through Kahuku where you’ll find the famous shrimp trucks. The trucks are hard to miss; parked along the side of the road, they’re painted in bright colors and some have interesting decorations.

Stop 5: The Banzai Pipeline

One cannot venture to the North Shore of O’ahu without visiting the famous Banzai Pipeline. This is perhaps the most well-known surf spot in the world. During the winter, large swells break on the reef forming barrel-shaped waves that draw surfers from all corners of the globe.

Lifeguards may or may not be on duty, but swimming is not advised either way. Venturing into these waters can very likely end in injury or death for an inexperienced swimmer or surfer.

The official name of this area is Ehukai Beach Park — the Pipeline is an area located off shore where the waves break over the reef. The Kamahameha Highway (83) rounds the northernmost tip of O’ahu and takes you along the North Shore. Look for the Ehukai Beach Park sign on the side of the road not long after you pass Sunset Beach.

Stop 6: Pu’u o Mahuka Heiau Temple

It’s time for a change of scenery. Pu’u o Mahuka Heiau was a spiritual place for Hawaiians and this was one of the locations where wives of ancient chiefs gave birth. There is a lot of ancient stonework and pathways laid here.

Take Kamehameha Highway (83) past Waimea Beach Park, then drive up PuPukea Road (just past Shark’s Cove). Follow signs for Heiau, park in the designated area then hike up to the top. Part of this drive is challenging as it goes uphill and over uneven ground.

Stop 7: Waimea Valley Audubon Center

The Audubon Center is located across the road from Waimea Bay and is a fun place to explore and hike. There are many different varieties of plants, and the trail ends at a small waterfall. You can enter the water and swim under the waterfall, however it’s likely that many other people will be doing the same thing. I chose to hang back, enjoy the view and shoot some photos.

Continue along Kamehameha Highway (83) and follow signs for the Waimea Valley Audubon Center.

Stop 8: Hale’iwa

Next, Route 83 leads you to the town of Haleiwa. You can’t miss the sign on the side of the road. For one, it’s enormous. Also, you will probably see visitors pulling over their cars to take pictures underneath the sign.

There are no shortage of surf shops and souvenirs in Hale’iwa. Enjoy the laid back North Shore atmosphere with a cone of Shave Ice at one of the famous refreshment stands.

Next Stop: Honolulu

At this point, you’re likely tired of driving. That’s good, because going much further along these roads on the western portion of O’ahu requires 4WD, proof of insurance and some serious driving skills. Most rental cars are forbidden from going further anyway. This is probably a good time to take Route 99 (Kamehameha Highway) across the interior of the island, towards the major highways (H1, H2) and back into Honolulu. If you’re still looking for more stops, you’ll pass the Dole Pineapple Plantation along this route.

Photo Gear

I did not mention cameras and lenses for a good reason: I did not have much in the way of photography gear when I made this trip. Don’t get me wrong — I was very much into photography as evidenced by the hundreds of photos I have of O’ahu, but at this point I was still a few months away from putting any serious money into any serious gear. All of these photos were taken with a simple, pocket-sized Sony Cybershot.

If I were going back I’d surely bring a DSLR, but I am also fond of minimizing gear in order to travel light. I would probably pack a general-purpose zoom lens with a wide angle, a light telephoto such as the Canon EF 135mm f/2L USM, and a fast 50mm f/1.4 lens.